Showing posts with label Dublin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dublin. Show all posts

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Smells like Grandma's fridge

Hello lovelies!



It's been a while, and I've been ... busy. This is good. I've arranged large international money transfers to pay for the upcoming degree, turned down invitations to weddings in Beirut, Waterford and Denver, planned for one in Engerland, booked a trip to Germany where I haven't been in 15 years, and introduced myself to a Croat, some Italians, an Argentine and a good many more. Pictures are courtesy of a different Dublin weekend, but a weekend that did its job admirably.


Last night, we had an epic Sri Lankan feast, a labour of love by the Bearded One. There was spicy sweet chicken, creamy baby brinjalinis, aromatic mounds of rice, and sambols a-go-go.

'Falling apart,' he said with a kitchen-sweaty smile as he lifted hunks of chicken out of the pot. It was a good thing. Miniature aubergines held their shape and colour and sat fatly in pink onions. He worked for five hours. Grandma would have been proud. I planted things in the garden and redid the gd devoured windowboxes. Let's just say that the nasturtiums were a far cry from this when I ripped them out in disgust and started again with primroses. 

Bastard blackfly.

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At the end, I pitched in for the terrifying vadai-frying experience, lentilly doughnuts bobbing happily in the Boiling Oil of Death, and stripped balls of curd from cheesecloth sieves for the treacley dessert. 

We're sending the extra curry leaves to Cork, as you do.




Sunday, August 03, 2008

Sure, the stairs'd kill 'im.

Last night, I resolved to get up with the horses. Websites told me that the Smithfield horse market started just after dawn, so there I was, primed and ready at 6.20 a.m. 



Primed, ready ... and all alone.

Nothing. Not a sausage. No horses, no riders. Just me, and a very small English girl with her granny, out so as not to rouse the parents in the hotel.

And then, two kids sauntered into the square, the John Waynes of Dublin 7. 

– 'How're ye, lads?' shouted an oul fella.
– 'I'm after comin' in from fuckin' Finglas with no fuckin' breakfast, that's how,' shouted back an eleven-year-old with a dirty jacket and a grin. En route to a bacon sandwich astride his pony, I had a feeling that he had the right idea.



But Finglas? Bareback? With a rope? At five in the morning? The mind boggles. Meanwhile, I went for a wander, and witnessed the loveliness of an empty and freshly-scrubbed Dublin. I worried about last night's drunks, but met with this morning's workers.



Two trips back to the house for coffee and several hours later, we were in action. One Dublin institution underway, and one very happy parkbench with her camera.



A few more clopped in, some horseboxes, trailers and sulkies, ponies, foals and dreyhorses. I was not a little intimidated, being very afraid of horses and all, but it was a calm lot in the early morning as things slowly got underway.



Not so later when I returned with the Maternal One – it was a kind of equine chaos controlled by good faith and some handling, with enormous great whacking horses with big fat lads in tracksuits galloping full-tilt down the square, terrifying racket, small ones rearing up in little horse scuffles, and new ones pouring in from around the city, streaming in from all corners of life, across the river and down from the mountains. You could hear them – and smell them – all day, long into the afternoon, when I blinked out of my hot nap at a sharp 'heeeeyAHHH' and the clatter of chariot wheels past my caterpillar-crawly windows.


Thursday, July 31, 2008

Bloddie would not be pleased.

So. You may have noticed that I like the natural world, and that I'm particularly fond of nasturtiums. The first thing I did in our nice new house was to plant nasturtium seeds in window boxes and set them out in the sun. We also planted squash, and were left no option but to grow them on the inside – in our bedroom. They're doing nicely, thanks.

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But I digress. The Editor was over recently, and much to my surprise, stuck his head out the window approvingly and said, 'Hey. Nasturtiums!'



He may have  gained a point for that.

The other day, the Bearded One and I were coming home in the sunshine and spotted a great, fat pigeon flapping in the windowboxes. I'd seen a magpie at the same game that morning. 'They'd better not be eating my flowers,' thinks me. 'There'll be slaps.'

No, stupid. They were eating these:


They have now been summarily re-housed across from the grounds of a local mental asylum. Bill Oddie would not approve. Ignorance followed by brute relocation of small creatures for my own human gains. Bwahaha.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

There's one for every cannonball


Sometimes, it's all Nu Dublin; Chinese howeyehs having a laugh on the Luas in from Tallaght, Nigerian fellas arguing about the quality of their rows outside the barber shop, picking up some Polish ricotta with your Irish Times of a Saturday morning.

Other times, it's just Dublin, where you spot a hooker from your neighbourhood as she walks along the quays. This evening, she stopped outside the Franciscan church, blessed herself, took a miraculous medal on a piece of string out of her pocket and slipped it over her head. As she went in, a short, tubby man with a rope around his waist turned and smiled.

She walked into the pews and the berobed lot went about their business. 

I headed home and saw a pair of swans with seven signets land in the Liffey.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

It's rather important to get out of the house.

  
Yes, I know you knew that already, but you may not know that it's really, really important if you've just started working from home and the paaardner works around the corner. It can all get a bit homey, and not in the fresh laundry on the line, feet up on the sofa, here'syourmartinidear, hilloveIboughtyouaMagnum sort of way, but in the killmeit'sChristmasandIhaven'tseenanyoneI'mnotrelatedtoinfivedays way.



So, now that I'm down a daily six-mile return cycle and the camaraderie of Curly and my fellow workers, I've been cycling everywhere that needs going to, taking meetings for work and meeting friends for pints and cake after hours. But lunches have been spent power-walking around the neighb wearing some spectacularly ugly shoes. I can't run, because I have a kneecap that doesn't like where God chose to put it in His infinite wisdom, and so takes every opportunity to go visiting around the inside of my shin. So power-walking it is.


More to the point, as this is all achingly bougy, the neighbourhood is fantastic. Ours is a beautiful street covered in flowerboxes and a nice mix of Dubs, Nice Young Couples, immigrants and foreign students. Somehow, you know you're in a good part of town when there are lots of French women around. They have standards, you know? We're also near the mental asylum, so there are a good few middle-aged transvestite drug users, edgy-looking young men and the odd young woman chatting to herself who come and go as day patients. Helps to keep you on your toes.

There's all sorts of good things to do and see, arthouse cinema, foodie shops, nice little restaurants and the biggest park in Europe right up the road. All this a few blocks from the river and with views of the mountains to boot. The mountains are a new thing for me, as Dublin was always all about the sea for me.

We may not have seals, but we do have a great fish joint, and cheap!

All in all, I'll take it, this neighbourhood.

Wednesday, July 02, 2008

London . . . Ontario?

So, all is well. I'm busy, working, enjoying the new house, beginning to potter and shoot in the neighbourhood. It's all coming together.

And then I got accepted to my degree.

Good news? Yes. And yet . . . I then learned that I'd been denied EU fee-paying status through some dastardly clerical error. I made a couple of phonecalls, and got a prized email address.

There then followed a silence of five days. I emailed again on day seven. Two days later, I got this:

On checking your documents on PAC can you confirm the following –

Where you state that you worked in London during 04 through to 08, was this in the UK?

I await your reply

Withr egards


Exactly like that, too.

What? London, in the UK? No. Surely not! I meant Ohio. Or was it Ontario?! Is that why the payslips that accompanied my applications read HM Revenue and Customs? Is that why they bore London addresses with big ole Brit postcodes on them? Is that why they were paid in pounds sterling?

KILL ME.

So, the deposit payment is due tomorrow, and I still don't know whether my fee-paying status has changed - so I can't pay them. This evening, I got a snappy email in response to my two-day old plea of 30 June, saying that this issue had already been addressed.

Is this actually proof that university administration doesn't read emails? Or is it proof of something more sinister?!? Comments please.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Return to the Mothership

Greetings, Earthlings.


I, for one, feel like I’ve been on Planet Xendor for the last month. I think the best way to go through things is sequentially, so, starting from the top:

I had my last day in London. I was on my own, bar lunch with a certain Go-getter, and I took a bit of a wander. I started at our house in Dartmouth Park, and I toodled down into the fabulous Kentish Town, stopped short of Camden and swung through Somers Town. It was a glorious day until I reached Russell Square and a pizza lunch with the Go-getter, where as the storm clouds gathered, I heard of his myriad impressive plans all stacking up on eachother with their deadlines and possibilities. Take that, pathetic fallacy. I told him of my plans, the agency set-up, the footloose and fancy-free feeling of having no more possessions in my life bar the roller bag and the duffel I was taking home from Gatwick.

I went on up to Islington, which is a great place to go when you’ve nowhere else to be. Full of life-affirming baked goods, expensive furniture, killer jewellery and antiques, it says ‘Waste time here – you know you want to.’ And I did.

It poured, but I took slow buses and thought about not very much and said goodbye. It felt like a great release.

And then I came home.

Irritating, the Maternal One refused to come to the airport, but I made it back home through throngs of Celine Dion fans. More or less immediately thereafter, I went back up to Dublin to meet the cousin. For some reason, I was vaguely dreading it – something to do with a combination of exhaustion and trepidation about entertaining a travelling newbie for a week.

My fears were unfounded and all was well. We toddled around Dublino, saw a couple of near and dear, did some sights, had some pints, went to the beach in the blazing sun, had cocktails, and that was a week. We talked about our shared family, nothing at all, Ireland and college life in Greenville, North Carolina. It was nice to get to know someone else in the family as if they were a real person, rather than a Christmas ornament. I spent my first and only stinky, hot summer in Washington with a different cousin once to the same effect, and I hope to work my way through all of them by the time I hit thirty.

When she left, I slept for sixteen hours. Then, I started to work.

I haven’t worked with such concentration and enjoyed my work or learned so much since I left college. This says to me that I’ve made the right move.

Not wanting to completely cut myself off in the seaside calm, I was up in Dublin for Writers Week, and got to see the wonderful Mr. Jones in conversation with John Boyne and Claire Kilroy, whose work I like very much. It was a slightly nervous set-up, hung on the tenuous connection of the South Seas – but it was a gorgeous introduction to the two baldy gents’ writing. A few days later, I had an infinitely less inspiring evening watching Hugo Hamilton ask poor David Grossman a slew of facile literary questions topped off with the breathtaking rhetorical on the Middle East, ‘I mean, how can you guys find it so hard? We showed you how to do it with Northern Ireland!’ Um, eight hundred years? So myself and the Editor headed for much-needed light-up pitchers of cheap beer and plates of very tasty sushi. Mine, the Eel Dragon roll, snaked across the plate under its crispy skin and looked at me with wasabi-paste eyes.

I’ve been going steadily on a project that came in three days before I launched the business, which is good, but I haven’t yet established any kind of schedule whereby I can do the task at hand while still setting up the bigger picture. I think that I should be able to do that once I’ve settled in our new house and am cookin’ with gas. It is, however, the uncomfortable, rigid, eyes-on-the-screen, slightly panicked kind of work that you do in your first days in a new job, which I guess I am.


To make my teeth unclench and reconnect with the outside world, I started taking huge walks and much shorter runs – and taking a lot of pictures. The river here is tidal, and goes so low that you can see the trouts’ fins as they roil just below the surface. We now have a pair of snowy egrets up from Africa, who seem to be having a tense relationship with the nesting herons. The ’round Ireland yacht race starts tomorrow, visible from the living room, and the lovely bronzed boaty types are attracting a good bit of, erm, harbour totty, I think Curly would call them.

I miss the Bearded One, but he’s been having much the same intense experience in a different context up in the city, so it’s good this way – but better together.

I feel like myself, and ‘glad to be home’ doesn’t even come close.


Thursday, May 01, 2008

Feeding wolves with rubber stamps

So, ever the worrier, am damn near apoplectic with concerns over the Very Boring Details of moving countries - again. Bank accounts, movers, college administration, luggage, living at home for a month in between . . . it's a lot to think about, or rather, worry blindly about.

And then there's the business. The new business will launch 16 June, before which date I'll need to talk to the business naming people, the tax man, the bank, and oh-so-many more people with rubber stamps before I can get cracking. (On the plus side, I now have my very own rubber stamp of my very lovely logo, thanks in part to My Friend George - see right.) More overwhelming is whether all this effort will succeed in earning me the required crust, though well-meaning friends and colleagues assure me that this is not an issue.

By way of keeping fingers in pies and the wolf from the door, I've started noodging for more reviewing work - which will be good *kill me* networking, too. A Dublin-based magazine might have some, but - as in Real Journalism - the freelancer must pitch the idea. They have some useful and amusingly-written guidelines for pitching. Most are fairly par for the course, but some are very useful points spelled out in plain English.

Friday, March 07, 2008

The last of the woods laid low

So where to begin. A quarter hour before my departure from the office in the chaotic and completely unmanaged handover of my boss on maternity leave, I learned that my godmother had lost out to the cancer that was diagnosed five years ago. She would have been sixty-nine next month. It felt like being crushed, slowly.

So when I hit Dublin, I went, with a kind and patient friend, to meet for a sleepy jar at the Gresham - Smithwicks, in honour of the lady herself. It was her pint of choice, to be had laughing loudly on the creaky plastic benches on the balcony of the Dalkey Island Hotel. There, I would drink Club Orange (in a bottle with a straw, please) and Scampi Fries, and bury 10p pieces in the garden for our next visit and another round of Pacman in the lobby. We'd look out at the island and pile on more jumpers, pretending it was really summer.

travelblog.com

Behind the scenes parkbenching in Dublin was productive, and met with old friends for pints, dinners, tea and cakes, and theatre, and new friends for chats about books and language. Shared a restaurant with Mr. Black while we ranted and rolled our tired eyes through more Trebbiano and outstayed our welcome with dessert we couldn't afford. Saw Mangan, Poe and Mahony onstage in Daniel Reardon's latest, Bleeding Poets at Dublin's New Theatre, a great space hosted by kind people, filling the gaping voide left by the closing of Andrew's Lane. Sublime, ridiculous and the beginning of a very long couple of weeks.

I was back in London for eighteen hours before taking my first flight to Norway. When I woke up the next morning in the cozy wooden house with the potbellied stove, I saw that in Trondheim, children ski to school.


When we filed out of the cathedral, the snow began to fall.

Monday, January 07, 2008

Christmas Catch-up...


Another year another... nyeh, who knows.

It's been ages, but December was a blur, and the pre-Christmas slow-down was a sneaking, snivelling foul little misnomer. It was heinous, our Managing Ed was ill, those who have failed to pull their weight all along excelled themselves, everybody else tried their best. It was all hands on deck, and it was ugly. Ugly, but nice to know that we got through it and the books were made.

Christmas in Old Country was lovely - enough time with our own families, each other's and friends to tick all the boxes and generally have a good time of it. I think the key is not spending too awfully long in any one place and mixing it up as best you can. Otherwise, cabin fever kicks in and people get crabby.



The Lads, headed up by My Friend George (see right), took a notion that I should see Cork, so I went down on the train and toodled - it's lovely, with winding laneways and the convivial quiet of a small Irish city - with the added bonus of a Cillian Murphy sighting in a gorgeous little pub called the Mutton Lane Inn. He seems nice. The four parents were stars, putting on additional roast dinners on their child-out-of-law's arrival, and being generally fantastic. Came home with a very old and very beautiful astrakhan coat, which I now have to endeavour to get cleaned... I don't think I'm upper-class enough for this one.

Stephen's Day was at the Master's house with the great and better than us. Fierce lit'rary, as previous, and just a warm and boozy day with a beautiful view. Sketched out the barest sketchings of The Plan to those who might be interested, and my God, what a reception it had. Apparently, The Plan is brilliant. Hmmph. That may be, but brilliancy doesn't necessarily buy groceries. Very encouraged nonetheless! On the 25th itself, I began the slow process of the legal mumbo-jumbo, interspersed with swan visits.

New Year's was a blast with a weird group comprised of the Bearded One's brothers, best friends and hangers on, the Ex and two of his friends I hadn't seen in, em, two and a half years. 'How have you been, J?', says I. 'Well, I've changed careers, A and I are due to get engaged... oh, and I was in a coma for five days.' No joke. A coma.

We stayed at the Mont Clare, in a lovely little corner room overlooking Greene's as was, Oscar Wilde's house and Merrion Square. In true Irish fashion, appearances weren't quite what they seemed, as a bockety blind clattered open and a heavy mirrored door swung gracefully awry. Pretty dreamy nonetheless, and topped off by a sleepy night in on the first - somehow junk food and bad movies takes on a whole new appeal in a hotel room. Wholesome, I know...

Sunday, September 30, 2007

Reviewing Dublin

So last week, I packed up and rocked out all happy-like for a few days at home. Flying at lunchtime on a Wednesday, let me tell you... why have one seat when you can have six?

Arrived to an office with a view across the Green and on to the Dublin Mountains (I can't even know where to start on that one) a humus wrap and a smiley Brendan, friend and fearless editor of the Dublin Review and the resulting Dublin Review Reader. The launch of the Reader was my excuse to come over, but God knows I don't need one. I can't imagine how pleased he must have been, and how mortified to be lauded by the likes of Colm Tóibín. Mortifying, but deserved. All the great and the good were there, but better still, it was a pleasingly young crowd to boot. Finally met Claire Kilroy, who's as lovely as billed by our own good selves here, and naturally by many more important people. Met a girl whose family house we once rented, which was extremely surreal. The whole thing got a nice write-up and photo in the paper (shout if you need help with the link).

After staying up until five (fine choice), I then met the Ex, who thought my state hilarious because it's usually his. Later, in the same coffee shop, I met the only editorial staff member of New Island press. Sorry, did you follow? The ONLY editor or editorial anything for a list spanning history, memoir, travel, lit crit, women's studies and fiction, thirty strong per year. Thirty. Now, as she modestly said herself, some are in series, many are rather straightforward... but I know a few people on this more monied side of the publishing waters who might learn something.

She explained that, of course, they don't have plans to expand, but I would have fallen off my chair had she said otherwise. She did suggest that I freelance on copy-editing and the like - I can't imagine that one could make a living like that, but what, as I ask myself daily, do I know. I think a better plan might be to convince an existing house to give me reign to do a fiction list, and dammit, Janet, I still want to do the MPhil in Literary Translation at Trinity (TCD, not Trinity, Dublin... we are not an Oxbridge outpost, dahlink). I can't get enough of their webpage and how it bears the practical, approachable, multiple-hat wearing mark of my favourite professor, Cormac Ó Cuilleanáin, who fosters the kind of interdisciplinary view of academic study seen in American degrees with none of the accompanying bullshit. But clearly, he's an interdisciplinary kinda guy.

I then toddled down to Wicklow and thought too much. Dangerous, female and generally ill-advised, thinking too much, particularly about the unknowable, vaguely near future is completely exhausting. The whole mid-week weekend left me shaken and wanting to relocate home to Dublin for good, now, and I don't know what to do. It's hard to have a night of the kind of working life you want with a combination of people you've known and loved for years and people you'd love to get to know, and then get back on the plane, alone - I do wish that the Bearded One had been with me. As people like to remind me, I have an interesting job with great potential on a good and growing fiction list in an old, famous publishing house, I've landed some great reviewing gigs, I live in a bustling city with lots to do that's also close to home, I'm coming on for four years with one of the best men on the planet who is kind, intelligent, adoring and adored. After one of the worst years on record, we have made a happy heap in a cheap, beautiful flat in a leafy bit of the city, 20 minutes from work, rented to us by a wonderfully warm publishing grande dame. Friends from all over regularly fill the house. To welcome me home were white peaches and pomegranates in the fruit basket, and a pastel de nata from the Portuguese deli.

PDG, right? Right.

Still, bring on November '08 and the decisions that it will bring.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

MacNeice 100 today

It's been another long, not-so-great day, so let's have a bit of this.



Dublin

Grey brick upon brick,
Declamatory bronze
On sombre pedestals -
O'Connell, Grattan, Moore -
And the brewery tugs and the swans
On the balustraded stream
And the bare bones of a fanlight
Over a hungry door
And the air soft on the cheek
And porter running from the taps
With a head of yellow cream
And Nelson on his pillar
Watching his world collapse.

This never was my town,
I was not born or bred
Nor schooled here and she will not
Have me alive or dead
But yet she holds my mind
With her seedy elegance,
With her gentle veils of rain
And all her ghosts that walk
And all that hide behind
Her Georgian facades -
The catcalls and the pain,
The glamour of her squalor,
The bravado of her talk.

The lights jig in the river
With a concertina movement
And the sun comes up in the morning
Like barley-sugar on the water
And the mist on the Wicklow hills
Is close, as close
As the peasantry were to the landlord,
As the Irish to the Anglo-Irish,
As the killer is close one moment
To the man he kills,
Or as the moment itself
Is close to the next moment.

She is not an Irish town
And she is not English,
Historic with guns and vermin
And the cold renown
Of a fragment of Church latin,
Of an oratorical phrase.
But oh the days are soft,
Soft enough to forget
The lesson better learnt,
The bullet on the wet
Streets, the crooked deal,
The steel behind the laugh,
The Four Courts burnt.

Fort of the Dane,
Garrison of the Saxon,
Augustan capital
Of a Gaelic nation,
Appropriating all
The alien brought,
You give me time for thought
And by a juggler's trick
You poise the toppling hour -
O greyness run to flower,
Grey stone, grey water,
And brick upon grey brick.

-- Louis MacNeice